Silk Weaving Enhanced by Geographical Indication Helps Preserve Cultural Heritage

Silk weaving has been an art in Laos for more than 1,200 years. According to legend, it all started when the son of a king married the daughter of a Chinese king, and the bride's parents gave her a mulberry tree and silkworms so she could have silk yarn for their clothes.

In Houaphanh province, weavers have continued this tradition and produce handwoven shawls, scarves, and skirts with unique qualities and patterns. "Houaphanh Silk," renowned for its smoothness, vibrant colors, and distinctive patterns, was registered as a geographical indication (GI) in 2020.

Photo: Thonma Thepsiri, “WIPO National Expert”, 2024.

Its colorful interlaced geometric designs and patterns are linked to the area's cultural heritage and tell its stories with ancient symbols, such as temples, animals, the mythical river serpent Naga, Siho, half elephant and half lion, and flowers.

Phaeng Chanthachit is the President of the "Houaphanh Silk" Promotion Association, created in August 2020. At 50 years old, she is a dedicated weaver who actively promotes silk weaving as a practice. She describes the versatility of Houaphanh Silk, which can be woven into items like headcloths, scarves, tube skirts with different hems, and table and wall covers. The association has 139 official members. Some of them employ several weavers, most of them women.

Photo: Noynith Chanthamith, “WIPO National Expert”, 2024.

Chemical-free Cultivation and Natural Dyes

"The mulberry cultivation, the silk production processes, the dyeing and weaving were passed down generations through the centuries," says Phaeng Chanthachit, President of the Houaphanh Silk Promotion Association.

"Indigo could produce blue, black, and green, while annatto seeds produce orange, daoherng flowers, yellow, and mahogany trees, pink and red," she explains, adding that Houaphanh silk is pesticide- and fertilizer-free and only natural dyes are used.

Photo: Chevala Vongthongchit, “Laos DIP” 2024.

Ancestral Craftmanship

Phommy Thummathong, a "Houaphanh Silk" Promotion Association member, started weaving when she was eight years old, taught by her mother and grandmother. At 51, she employs 280 weavers, 50 of which only weave Houaphanh silk.

When she was a child, Ms. Thummathong's mother and grandmother reeled the silk themselves. Now, she buys the silk from another district.

Traditional silk weaving requires patience and concentration, as the process is delicate and meticulous. On average, Ms. Thummathong says it takes half a day to weave one meter of plain fabric, but it can take up to two weeks if the design is intricate.

GI Silk Gained Recognition but Sill Needs Awareness Raising

The silk industry contributes to about 30 % of Houaphanh's economy, as many people are involved in its production and commercialization, from mulberry farming and silkworm breeding, to silk reeling, dyeing, and weaving.

Since the GI has been registered, "Houaphanh Silk" has gained recognition in the domestic and international markets.

WIPO is supporting the silk producers and their Association through a tailored project designed to enhance their capacity to use and manage the GI effectively, as well as to expand markets for their products and forge new business partnerships. The project will also contribute in developing the local GI expertise so that more GI producers can be supported.

Using a registered GI allows Ms. Thummathong to sell her silk for 50 percent higher than other silk. Unfortunately, she laments that most people do not understand the value of a geographical indication-certified product, calling for greater awareness.

According to Ms. Thummathong, she suffers from unfair competition as some weavers import machine-made silk yarn from neighboring countries that use chemical dyes. They then copy her patterns and sell their products at much cheaper prices.

Ms. Chanthachit echoed Ms. Thummathong’s concerns. She hopes the Association can build a showroom to serve as a weaving and training center in the next five years.

"Houaphanh silk is of higher quality, preserves the cultural heritage of Houaphanh and Laos, and benefits people and the planet as chemicals are banned from cultivation, and the process only uses natural dyes," said Ms. Thummathong, adding that she hopes more weavers will become interested in weaving GI silk in the future.